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Paint the Bluegrass Red

Louisville, Ky. 
Spring/Summer 2007

Louisville has long boasted a flourishing restaurant culture, and any trip to this town should begin and end at the Brown Hotel, where Hot Brown was introduced in the 1920s.

The dish is simply a mixture of bacon, turkey, bread, butter and cheese, but for some reason it tastes unbelievable at J. Graham's eatery — a quirky, old-fashioned brasserie just off the lobby of this historic hotel. The hotel's English Grill, headed by Chef Joe Castro, is a AAA Four-Diamond Award-winning restaurant that showcases Castro's dedication to the freshest cuisine of the region, interesting meat and game, and fantastic desserts.

Move from the old to the new by visiting Proof on Main. Here's what happens when a restaurant meets an art gallery — the notion of an "old-fashioned" Louisville gets turned on its ear. Modern art dangles from the walls, while unpretentious upscale food makes its way from the kitchen to the banquettes. As the restaurant's name promises, Proof serves up its share of Kentucky bourbon as well.

Bourbon fans meander toward Louisville's new 4th Street Live downtown entertainment complex to visit the Maker's Mark Bourbon House and Lounge. Every bourbon distilled in Kentucky is featured in this flashy bar, and visitors are immersed in the culture of bourbon from the wall cases that show off bourbon bottles, to the frequent tastings that are held here.

Not far away from downtown Louisville, Churchill Downs represents the region's other obsession — horse racing. Of course, it's nearly impossible to get a seat here on Derby Day, so choose another time to dine at Churchill Downs' new clubhouse, located on the third floor with a fantastic view of the track. Book in advance to request a seat at the chef's table. And don't be afraid to tell them you'd like a little bourbon in your food.

Take a day and head out of town toward Bardstown to fully experience the bourbon lifestyle. Distilleries in the area offer tours — you can sample bourbon inside an oversized bourbon barrel at Heaven Hill distilleries — and be sure to pick up a pound of bourbon-infused fudge from Gethsemane Farms, a Trappist monastery that mixes chocolate and bourbon in an almost unholy manner.