The views would be reason enough to visit Old Mission Peninsula. A narrow finger of land jutting north of Traverse City, Michigan, the peninsula is embraced on both sides by arms of Grand Traverse Bay. On a sunny summer day, the deep blues of Lake Michigan meld with the deep blues of the sky, and only the clouds differentiate one from the other (unless the whitecaps fool you).
Old Mission's hilly, fertile soil, tempered by Great Lakes breezes and nourished with heavy winter snows, was once the domain of fruit farmers whose orchards made Traverse City synonymous with cherries. You'll still see orchards scattered along Old Mission Peninsula, but the prized fruit these days is wine grapes. More than a dozen wineries populate the area around Traverse City, which includes not only Old Mission but also the larger Leelanau Peninsula to the west. Traversed by the 45th parallel, the same line that runs through the great wine regions of central France and Germany, northern Michigan's wine region produces similar drinks. Rieslings, Chardonnays, Pinot Gris and Pinot Noirs surpass other varieties in quantity and quality as a rule. But you'll also find Gamays, Cabernet Francs, Merlots, fruit wines and spirits, and sparkling wines. Whatever your palate, northern Michigan won't disappoint.
Before beginning a tour of Michigan's northwestern wine country, settle into the cozy B&B at Chateau Chantal, itself an award-winning winery. Set near the northern end of Old Mission Peninsula, Chateau Chantal isn't the most centrally located lodging in wine country, but you won't care. Sixty-five acres of trees and vineyards surround the turreted inn and winery, which sit at the top of a crest overlooking both East and West Grand Traverse Bays. Luxury beckons from the moment you make the slow and winding approach to the inn. And its promise is fulfilled inside each of the inn's 11 suites and guestrooms. A modern European theme dominates the inn's decor, incorporating reproductions of Impressionist masterpieces, thick down duvets and elegant tapestries. And each room boasts either a terrace or a balcony, the perfect place to sip a little wine and enjoy the scenery.
Since area tasting rooms don't generally open until 11 a.m., sleep in and enjoy a quiet morning at the inn. But don't miss breakfast. A hot buffet includes homemade goodies such as pear pancakes, cranberry scones, quiche and maple sausages, all made with local produce when available. In the evening, after the tasting room has closed to the public, inn guests are encouraged to return for additional samplings from the winery's reserve: Pinot Grigios, Chardonnays, Rieslings and a Pinot Noir.
Chateau Chantal may be the most elegant winery on Old Mission Peninsula, but it isn't the oldest. Just a few miles south is Chateau Grand Traverse, northern Michigan's viticulture pioneer.
When Ed O'Keefe founded Chateau Grand Traverse in 1974 people laughed at him: "You're trying to grow grapes where?" But O'Keefe thought he knew what he was doing. Thirty years later, no one's laughing — and plenty of entrepreneurs are following his lead. Chateau Grand Traverse produces some of the finest and most consistent wines in the region. Its most popular — and most award-winning — wines are two Johannisberg Rieslings, the Semidry and Late Harvest varieties. Chateau Grand Traverse also crafts a nice, spicy Pinot Noir and one of the few good Gamay Noirs in the area. You can judge for yourself the quality of Chateau Grand Traverse's 21 wines in the facility's tasting room under the tutelage of some of the most knowledgeable winery expert around.
While Old Mission Peninsula boasts fabulous scenery and excellent wine producers, most of northern Michigan's wineries are located farther west on the no less scenic Leelanau Peninsula.
Just south of Suttons Bay, Black Star's estate sits amid 120 acres of vineyards and hardwood forest. The red-and-white winery and inn are designed in the style of a Kentucky horse farm (horses included). The winery specializes in fine white wines, including local staples such as Chardonnays, Pinot Gris and Rieslings. But Black Star also produces some interesting spirits, including pear and cherry eau de vie and apple brandy. Ask for a sample of the house-made raclette cheese, too. It's delicious.
Not far from Black Star is L. Mawby Vineyards, a winery dedicated to crafting sparkling wines (a dry vignole is their only still wine). The specialty is an unusual one in an area known predominantly for its still beverages. But L. Mawby produces some of the finest bubbly you'll ever taste, and with very few exceptions, these are the sparkling wines usually sold at the other Michigan wineries you'll visit during your stay. Wines range from Brut to Demi-Sec and include some unconventional names such as US, Fizz and Sex.
You'll have to drive around Lake Leelanau to get to Bel Lago Winery, a trip that might take half an hour on twisting rural roads. But you'll be glad you made the journey. Bel Lago produces one of the few fine, big reds in northern Michigan: Tempesta, created from Cabernet Franc and other red grapes and aged in American oak. Also worth sampling and buying are Bel Lago's Pinot Noir and its Alsatian white, the Auxerrois, an unusual variety in this area.
After you've visited the tasting rooms of these favorites, check out others that catch your eye. Make an afternoon of hopping from one winery to another (pick up a winery map at any tasting room). Then it's time to think about dinner — perhaps a sunset over Grand Traverse Bay, perhaps an evening walk through the vineyards back at Chateau Chantal. Life is reduced to these simple pleasures in northern Michigan's wine country. Enjoy.
Chateau Chantal, 15900 Rue de Vin, Traverse City, 231/223-4110. www.chateauchantal.com
Chateau Grand Traverse Winery & Vineyards, 12239 Center Rd., Traverse City, 231/223-9484. www.cgtwines.com
Black Star Farms, 10844 E. Revold Rd., Suttons Bay, 231/271-4970. www.blackstarfarms.com
L. Mawby Vineyards, 4519 S. Elm Valley Rd., Suttons Bay, 231/271-3522. www.lmawby.com
Bel Lago Winery, 6530 S. Lake Shore Dr., Cedar, 231/228-4800. www.bellago.com
Vintage Meals
Menus at these restaurants include a nice representation of local wines – and the food is great, too.
Trattoria Stella, The Village at Grand Traverse Commons, 1200 W. 11th St., Unit 1, Suite 1, Traverse City, 231/929-8989. Contemporary Italian food featuring local produce and fresh seafood. Close to downtown Traverse City.
Old Mission Tavern & Bella Galleria, 17015 Center Rd., Traverse City, 231/223-7280. Prime rib, fish and steak, sharing space with a local art gallery. Near Chateau Chantal.
Amical, 229 E. Front St., Traverse City, 231/941-8888. French bistro serving pasta and seafood, also known for its fabulous desserts. Downtown Traverse City.
Michigan Wine Resources
Michigan Grape and Wine Industry Council, 517/241-4468, www.michiganwines.com
Leelanau Peninsula Vintners, www.lpwines.com
Wineries of Old Mission Peninsula, www.wineriesofoldmission.com