On the Great Allegheny Passage, both the journey and the destinations reward. This 150-mile trail stretching from Cumberland, Maryland, to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, offers pleasures for those who stay on the straight and narrow path and to those who stray from its crushed limestone surface.
The path accommodates hikers, bicyclists and, on some stretches, equestrians. Grades average 2 percent, allowing visitors to concentrate more on sites than survival. Wildlife is abundant – deer often flock near the tracks while several species of birds inhabit the trees. The 1,908-foot Meyersdale to Salisbury Viaduct makes a spectacular crossing in the valley of the Somerset windmills. Also breathtaking is the recently restored Big Savage Tunnel, near the Mason-Dixon Line in Somerset, Pennsylvania. The lighted, slightly curving path runs 3,924 feet through the former rail tunnel, opening at the south to panoramic views of the Allegheny Mountains and at the north to farmland rolling over the Continental Divide.
Along the Allegheny Trail are several opportunities for stops and side trips. Harper's Ferry Historic Park in West Virginia marks the site of John Brown's rebellion. Ohiopyle State Park in Pennsylvania's Laurel Highlands merits at least a day's visit. Here the Youghiogheny River roars through boulder-strewn banks, providing rousing whitewater rafting. Nature trails lead to bucolic waterfalls and streams great for boating and wilderness trout fishing.
If you don't want to rough it, check in at the Quiet House B and B, which offers main house rooms or separate cottages. And by all means, indulge yourself at the Falls City Pub. Try the smoked pork chops topped with apple glaze or order a Legend of the Laurel Mt. sandwich, comprised of corned beef, sauerkraut and melted Swiss cheese topped with Russian dressing on toasted marble rye bread. Another restaurant offering comforting home-style cooking is Betty's in Shepherdstown, West Virginia. There, you can charge up on carbs (pancakes) or protein (steak).
Visitors to Pittsburgh can sample the Passage without leaving the city. A four-mile Forts and Sports loop begins downtown at Point State Park, then leads along the banks of the Allegheny River.