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If You Go ...
Travel Michigan, 888/784-7328. travel.michigan.org
Charlevoix Area Chamber of Commerce, 231/547-2101. www.charlevoix.org.
Beaver Island Chamber of Commerce, 231/448-2505. www.beaverisland.org.
Weathervane Terrace Inn & Suites, 111 Pine River Ln., Charlevoix, Mich., 800/552-0025, 231/547-9955. www.weathervane-chx.com.
Stafford's Weathervane Restaurant, 106 Pine River Lake, Charlevoix, Mich., 231/547-4311. www.staffords.com.
Kilwin's Chocolates and Ice Cream, 233 Bridge St., Charlevoix, Mich., 231/547-5013. www.kilwins.com.
Bier Art Gallery, 17959 Ferry Rd., Charlevoix, Mich., 866/880-5624, 231/547-2288. www.biergallery.com.
Beaver Island Boat Company, 103 Bridge Park Dr., Charlevoix, Mich., 888/446-4095, 231/547-2311. bibco.com
Island Airways, 111 Airport Dr., 800/524-6895, 231/547-2141 (from Charlevoix), 213/448-2071 (from Beaver Island). www.islandairways.com
Inland Seas School of Kayaking, 231/448-2221, www.inlandseaskayaking.com
Outside Edge, 112 Water St., Boyne City, Mich., 231/582-4648. www.outsideedge.ws.
Horton Bay General Store, 5115 Boyne City Rd., Boyne City, Mich., 231/582-7827.
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When the air gets as cool and crisp as the apples, and the trees turn autumn-hued Crayola box colors, northern Michigan takes on a semi-somnambulistic air as it prepares to hunker down for the cold winter ahead. Land of shimmering lakes and tree-lined back roads, Michigan's the place for a laid-back fall vacation.
Don't be fooled by its relaxed pace and quiet beauty, though; some unusual characters have been drawn to this lovely part of the Midwest. Unquestionably the most famous local was literary lion Ernest Hemingway. Not only did Papa use Horton Bay as the locale for his Nick Adams stories, it's also where he spent his first honeymoon. Then there was Charlevoix rock hound extraordinaire Earl Young, who took his love of stones to the illogical extreme, creating fairy-tale-castle-type structures from local rocks. And, of course, who could forget Mormon leader James Strang, who lured a group of his followers to Beaver Island and then declared himself king.
Cliche though it may be, the first word that comes to mind on entering downtown Charlevoix is "charming." Managing to transcend the terminally cute, storefronts are individually decorated, and all look freshly painted, lovingly cared for, and cheerfully inviting. This is the town that Earl Young loved, and where he found an outlet for his passion for rocks. He wasn't a licensed architect or contractor, and is not widely known outside of the immediate area, but he had, in his own words, "a very strong feeling for stone."
Without even bothering with plans, except perhaps to make a few sketches that he could show to his builders, he created elaborate stone structures – most built from the 1920s to the 1950s – that are today some of Charlevoix's most unique landmarks. Because he designed buildings that looked like they sprang from the ground, his creations became known as mushroom or Hobbit houses. This rock-happy artisan, always on the lookout for stones to use in his buildings, not only used local quarry limestone and fieldstone, but, it is said, scoured the area for stones that struck his fancy, which he'd either have dug up on the spot or buried for use at a later date.
Maps are available for self-guided walking tours of Young's houses, but for an up-close and personal experience, nothing beats spending a night or two at the Weathervane Terrace or having a meal in the Weathervane Inn dining room. Both are testimonials to the local rock lover's ability to turn a passion into an art form.
Today Charlevoix's artistic pursuits may be on a smaller scale, but they are nonetheless evident. While downtown shops, such as Koucky Gallery, feature an eclectic mix of works by local and regional artists, one of the best places to view and buy local art is six miles south of town at Bier Gallery. In a sparkling red turn-of-the-century schoolhouse and its grounds, the work of more than 40 artists is displayed. Not only is the art top-quality, it is also guaranteed to make you smile. Co-owner Tami Biers' pottery is notable for its whimsical frogs, and Rod Berup's garden sculptures include realistic metal crows and a larger-than-life-sized glistening golden frog, complete with reading glasses, hunched over a book on a stone bench.
After a walking tour of the Young houses and a saunter down Charlevoix's Main Street checking out galleries and boutiques, nothing hits the spot like something sweet. Kilwin's began as a mom-and-pop business in the nearby town of Petoskey in 1947; today it has dozens of stores in a number of states. One bite of the sinfully rich and delicious homemade ice cream and candies at Kilwin's and it's clear why Charlevoix residents are so proud of their local product.
Quintessential religious fanatic James Strang, perhaps the most eccentric, and certainly the most egocentric, character in the area's history, spent eight years on Beaver Island. Thanks to Strang, the 53-square-mile island, located 32 miles off Charlevoix's Lake Michigan shoreline, has the distinction of being, albeit briefly, America's only kingdom.
In 1848, Strang, a converted Mormon, managed to amass a following and then spirited the faithful away to Beaver Island. Once a community was established, Strang, overwhelmed by his sense of self-importance, accumulated wives and appointed himself King James Jesse Strang of the Kingdom of, what else, St. James. When in 1856 attempts to oust Strang by legal means failed, a couple of his disgruntled followers took the law into their own hands and assassinated him.
There are two ways to get to Beaver Island, by ferry (two hours) or by plane (15 minutes). In the fall, the quiet season, the ferry runs only once a day, making it necessary to spend at least a night in one of the island's B&Bs, motels or campgrounds. Day-trippers can take advantage of Island Airways' more frequent daily flights.
Regardless of how you get there, or how long you stay, a visit to the Old Mormon Print Shop Museum is a must. Built during the reign of the island's self-proclaimed monarch, north Michigan's first newspaper was printed here. Today the building serves as a museum, covering various periods of island history, and includes a display telling the story of its one-time king.
With the summer rush over and the leaves turning brilliant hues, there's no better time to experience the relaxed island attitude. Unless the plan is to just hang around the tiny downtown, though, either ferry with your bike or arrange to have a rental car meet the plane or boat. This way, the best fall color will be just a drive or a bike ride away.
To see the changing color from another perspective, consider one of Inland Seas School of Kayaking's half-day trips. What could be more tranquil than the lapping of the water, the shushing of the paddles, and the sight of the golds and reds of the leaves reflected in the lake.
While Young and Strang are regionally famous, Ernest Hemingway belongs to the world, and devotees of the acclaimed author make pilgrimages to Horton Bay and Walloon Lake. This area, just a short drive from Charlevoix, is where the then-fledgling author spent his early summers, where he developed his love for fishing, where he married his first wife, and where his Nick Adams stories took place.
For a leisurely fall tour of the Hemingway sights, combined with a little exercise and some leaf peeping, rent a bike at Outside Edge in Boyne City and peddle off to Horton Bay. Serious Hemingway scholars will recognize the Horton Bay General Store from its description in Up in Michigan. Around since 1876, it can't help but be a thrill for ardent fans to tread over the same floorboards and set purchases on the same counter that a youthful Hemingway once did. Today, besides selling the same sorts of sundries available in Hemingway's day, the store displays photos and memorabilia of its most famous patron.
Besides the General Store, other Hemingway-important structures in Horton Bay village include the Stroud House, the Township School and two spacious cottages – Shangri-La and Pinehurst. All were mentioned in various Hemingway short stories, with Pinehurst having the added intrigue of being where, on September 3, 1921, the author and his first bride, Hadley Richardson, had their wedding breakfast.
Hemingway's legendary love of fishing began on Michigan's waterways. Walloon Lake, Lake Charlevoix and Horton Creek were all favorite fishing spots for the young Hemingway and all later became settings for his Michigan stories. All three are particularly lovely in the fall when the bright colors of surrounding trees are reflected in the dark waters.
The true Hemingway fan will not want to miss taking a peak at Windemere, the Hemingway family cottage on Walloon Lake. The recently remodeled and enlarged year-round home is privately owned, but for true aficionados even a glimpse from the road is likely to get the heart racing.